Story and photos by Barbara Beckley
Ahh…relaxing under a palapa, cerveza in hand, watching the surf wash onto the golden beach. Paradise? I think so.
I was in Sayulita, a fishing village-turned bohemian art colony and world recognized surf break – on a jungle-clad bay along the Riviera Nayarit on Mexico’s Pacific Coast, an hour north of Puerto Vallarta International Airport.
Tree-shaded cobblestone streets and bright-colored adobe buildings – filled with delightful boutiques, galleries, cafes, small hotels, and expat holiday homes – create a charming vibe. While larger-than-life murals and palapa-top balconies add a touch of quirkiness. Friendly street vendors display their handmade works: Nayarit’s traditional Huichol beadwork art and embroidery.
Architecture in Sayulita
Cute little toys found in the Square
A boutique in Sayulita
Equally friendly roving bartenders pour drinks from their rolling bars – parked curbside. How convenient is that!
A rolling bar–how convenient!!
Not too Rustic & Not too Touristy – Just Right
Discovered by surfers in the 1990s, Sayulita remains unspoiled. An insider favorite with US expats and travelers in the know. Just right for a relaxed Jimmy Buffet-like getaway. The beachfront jewel of the Mexican state of Nayarit’s nine “Pueblo Magicos” (small towns recognized for maintaining their original architecture, culture, folklore, and history). As a fellow lunch-goer from Santa Barbara told me, “My daughter got married here two years ago. Now I visit every year.”
With fellow journalists Carlos Avilas, left, and Chris Turon from Visit Nayarit
This was my first time, and I was hooked. Just sitting here with friends having a Pacifico Michelada (beer, lime juice and salt) and fresh grilled red snapper at local favorite Don Pedro’s beachfront restaurant and bar (founded by two California surfers in 1992) made me want to return, too. I lingered at the table, while Todd swam in the ocean – “warm like a bathtub,” he said. And Gloria took a two-hour surf lesson.
I indulged in my favorite pastime – shopping. “Here. Put this toy iguana on your shoulder,” a friend laughed. The cute little critter made a fun photo op, in the cozy, sunny main square.
Author Barbara Beckley with a toy iguana on her shoulder
But I had my eye on the traditional beadwork. And jaguar motif – the beloved animal of the local Huichol people. Walking along the “main drag,” lace-like “papel pecado” multicolored cut-out flags fluttered above, and wildly colorful beadwork gleamed on vendor tables below. “Yes!” I spotted double jaguars on a headband hand-beaded by vendor Juan. “I do the beading, my wife does the embroidery,” Juan told me, after I complimented him on his embroidered shirt. Popping into a boutique, owned it turned out by an American expat, I couldn’t resist the adorable handmade doggie figurine, among her stylish collection of locally made clothing, tile, art, jewelry, and leather goods.
The festive streets of Sayulita
Barbara’s jaguar-patterned headband from Sayulita
My ‘doggie’ in a shop in Sayulita
From Local to Lux
Sayulita was the first stop on a four-day jaunt through Nayarit, Pacific Mexico’s newest hot spot. Even more laid-back San Pancho is four miles north, our host Christopher Turon of Nayarit Tourism, pointed out. “I’m Christian, but you can call me Chris – or you can call me Handsome,” he said at our first meeting. A great guy! But we headed south an hour – into the lap of luxury at Vidanta Nuevo Vallarta resort.
Not just any resort! Vidanta Nuevo Vallarta sprawls across 2,500 beachfront acres in Nayarit, on the Ameca River (which separates Nayarit from Puerto Vallarta), a tropical playground with more than a mile-long beach, man-made jungles, streams, lagoons, 40-plus restaurants, and lounges; 30 pools, a Greg Norman Signature golf course, watersports, nightly entertainment, even an aerial gondola (to access its soon-to-open theme park), and 10 hotel towers with some 2,400 suites, and penthouses – some so lavish that Mexico’s super rich pro boxer, Canelo Alvarez, has one. Vidanta is not all-inclusive. But it includes everything for a Riviera Nayarit getaway. You can buy memberships. I met a New Jersey couple who consider it their second home, spending three months a year here—hardly leaving the property. Free guest shuttles run 24/7.
Author Barbara Beckley strolls though Vidanta
Entertainment on Vidanta’s beach
My room, oh my! I was in the Tower 3 Grande Luxxe Residence Club on the eighth floor. I’m guessing it was nearly 1,000 square feet, with a formal living room, floor-to-ceiling windows, and private balcony – plus – a private corridor leading to the expansive bath with a Jacuzzi tub and moveable walls to soak with a view; followed by my bedroom, with a different private balcony and sweeping coastal views. An interesting layout – suitable for couples, or friends and family, as I’m guessing the living room can be outfitted with sofa beds.
Vidanta’s rooftop Quinta Charcoal Grill & Lounge
As wonderful as my digs were – I fell in love with Tower 5! It’s home to Vidanta’s Quinta Charcoal Grill & Lounge – one of the most impressive rooftop restaurant/bars I’ve ever experienced. Atop the 10th floor, its 360-degree views were breathtaking – sweeping across all Banderas Bay and the Pacific Ocean, the Ameca River, and dazzling lights of the Riviera Nayarit. Not surprisingly, the concierge told me it’s a favorite for marriage proposals. Who could say “no” in a setting like this?
More than Beautiful Beaches
We breakfasted at Vidanta’s La Cantina casual eatery, with a waterfall flowing through it. I ordered my favorite – chilaquiles verde. And enjoyed a surprise encounter with Vidanta’s raptor keeper and his handsome Harris Hawk.
Vidanta’s Harris Hawk
Then we were we off. On an overnight adventure in the nearby Sierra Madre Mountains (foothills by California standards) and two more of Nayarit’s “Pueblos Magicos.”
Compostela
Arriving in Compostela – about a two-hour drive – its 16th century Santiago Apostol parish church and square seemed little changed over the centuries. Even to the Huichol artisans selling their works beneath the church walls. Founded in 1530, it was easy to imagine the conquistadores riding through on horseback – except for the “COMPOSTELA” spelled out in giant cement letters. A must-take photo op.
We learned that Compostela is a coffee “capital” surrounded by mountain coffee plantations. Going down a dirt road three blocks from the square, we enjoyed a coffee liqueur tasting at one the region’s top coffee growers and owner of top-rated Café Molote. In business for 80 years, second generation owner Manuel Plasencia and his wife, Dona Maria, walked us through the process from newly sprouted plant to 100 percent Mexican Arabica roasted beans. I noticed a couple of vanilla bean vines twining around the coffee plants. “Yes. The vanilla vines enhance the flavor of the coffee beans,” Placencia explained.
Second generation coffee grower Michael Placencia and his wife, Dona Maria
Papel pecado flags flew above the tables, a guitarist serenaded, and the second-story open-air terrace offered charming city views as we lunched at Camahuer, Compostela’s oldest and favorite restaurant. I watched in awe as the chef multi-tasked in the open kitchen; hand-tossing corn tortillas, grilling carne asada and making the best pozole I’ve ever eaten.
Inside the festive, fun and oldest restaurant in Campostela
Fully loaded pozole in Compostela
Dessert was just a walk across the square to Refresqueria El Manantial de Compostela and its famous “raspado.” Shave ice briming with fresh papaya, mango or other fruity delights drizzled with syrup. (Eat your heart out Hawaii.)
Compostela’s famous Shave Ice
Jala
An hour away, Jala greeted us at the foot of active Ceboruco Volcano. Founded around 1582, Chris said we were only an hour from the town of Tequila, outside Guadalajara. But we stayed put. Captivated by Jala’s colonial allure – and crazy fame.
Colonial Jala
Surprise! Jala is the Corn Capital of the world! Where farmers grow ears of corn up to four feet in length! The Jala Corn Festival, celebrated for two weeks each August, draws crowds from around the world. And crowns a beautiful Corn Queen, as we saw in the city museum, Museo Communitario De Jala. Along with Aztec figurines – this was Aztec territory – often unearthed by the corn farmers. Travelers also enjoy Jala as a base to hike, bike, motorcycle and explore the volcano.
Jala is the corn capital of the world
Its last harmless spurt was in 1858, according to Chris. And to share the city’s love of life. “Every Saturday night is a party!” enthused Chris. “When locals and visitors celebrate the ‘Callejomeada,’ (walk about) led by two giant puppets, with strolling musicians, arts, crafts, and tequila, lots of tequila.” I imagined it was Saturday night as we strolled across the square and stopped for churros made on the spot by a street vendor.
We overnighted at Jala’s luxe five-star Nukari Quinta Boutique hotel, a beautiful former mansion, circa 1778, with the best location in town – across from the 19th century Basilica Lateranense de Nuestro Senora de la Asuncion (which the mansion’s original owners had given the money and land to build), within walking distance to most historical attractions, popular eateries, and nightspots. My room was on the second floor, accessed by stairs off the central open courtyard. An elegant bedroom, vanity area, and bath with a jacuzzi. Just one flight up to dinner at the rooftop restaurant La Cantera.
The five-star Nukari Quinta Boutique hotel
What a dinner it was! The stars above. The illuminated basilica and volcano as a backdrop. Sophisticated margaritas in martini glasses. The house specialty, “Ribeye A La Piedra,” charcoal roasted on a volcanic stone.
Nukari’s rooftop restaurant with cocktails and Ribeye a la Piedra charbroiled on a volcanic rock.
And…What were the odds?
Miss Mexico 2023, live and in person! Sure enough, halfway through dinner a La Cantera, Miss Mexico and her entourage arrived for a photo shoot! Beautiful and gracious, she took time to talk and pose with us. An amazing finale to an amazing trip.
Proof positive, I say, that Nayarit is the place to see – and be seen!
Getting There: My four-day jaunt was easy, thanks to JetBlue’s new LAX – Puerto Vallarta International Airport daily service. Flights depart LAX at 7:30 a.m. arriving around 11 a.m., (Nayarit is an hour ahead of Los Angeles) leaving plenty of time for a day of fun-in-the-sun.
Flight time averages 2.5 hours. And comfortable. JetBlue’s Airbus A320 coach seating is among the industry’s roomiest, with a 32-inch seat pitch. Plus, free wi-fi, movies, non-alcoholic beverage and crackers or cookies. And talk about low fares! August flights begin at $96 one-way.
