Eco Pleasures of Espiritu Santa Island

Within the warm, aqua waters of the Sea of Cortez are treasures to discover and adventures to take—an eco-retreat experience that guarantees an unforgettable vacation memory. Cousteau called these waters surrounding La Paz “the world’s aquarium”—a most fitting description of the area’s rich and diverse ecosystems found in bay after aqua-blue bay with white- sand beaches protected by dramatic rock formations sprinkled with cacti. Harbor porpoises, dolphins, sea lions, mantas and whale sharks fill the waters and coves; migratory birds perch on the rocks and tiny islands that jut out from the sea. Locals call La Paz’s waterway the “whale highway” during the winter months when dozens of whales at a time can be seen making their annual migration to give birth a short distance away.

The barrier island of Espiritu Santa Island, a UNESCO World Heritage Bio Reserve, is the setting for a unique guided tour of this area. Deep ocean trenches and nutrient-rich sea beds make this one of the most important areas in the world for both commercial and sport fishing, verified by the numerous sports-fishing tournaments held in La Paz each year. Nearly 900 species of fish, 90 of them endemic, are found in these waters. Swimming and snorkeling in the shallow waters of any bay, from scenic Balandra Bay to those unnamed “finds,” is a “must-do,” as well as this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to commune with the sea lions.

Snorkeling with the Sea Lions

To swim or snorkel with these fascinating creatures is as easy as taking a new tour offered by Retreats Unlimited at the CostaBaja Resort & Spa, an all-inclusive resort just ten minutes south of downtown La Paz. The 550-acre resort development, a destination in itself, is poised on the Sea of Cortez and overlooks an exclusive-feeling marina and idyllic stretch of protected beach and coast.

Eco tour-goers begin their unforgettable adventure by taking a breathtaking one hour- and twenty- minute boat ride, skimming along deep blue turquoise waters to the rich reserve at Espiritu Santo. The barrier island reveals the best part yet—powder soft beaches, secluded bays and a pristine eco-system dotted with blue-footed boobies, playful sea lions, jumping dolphins, sea turtles and more. All snorkeling equipment is provided for frolicking with the sea mammals—you just need to remember to bring a camera! Hungry swimmers are served a lunch on the beach of Ensenada Grande Island, surrounded by red rocks and towering cacti. Throughout the tour, professional guides impart fascinating information about the natural history of the underwater treasure extolled by Cousteau.

Enjoy it all

CostaBaja Resort offers a pleasing combination of desert and ocean, as well as Mexico’s first Gary Player-designed golf course with hilltop vistas, a private beach club, three pools, villas, condos and a serene 250-slip, double-basin marina that often sports impressive mega yachts. The hotel, the first five-star resort in the city, has 115 sophisticated guest rooms, a high-end restaurant and the stress-melting Espiritu Spa known for its “rituals” that integrate ancient herbs, chakra balancing and attention to the nervous system. The lobby sports glass panels open to the sea.

CostaBaja offers two restaurants within the resort, the more casual Mosaic and the popular Steinbeck’s. Three more restaurants line the Marina CostaBaja just steps away. Steinbeck’s, named after the author whom purportedly penned a novel here, has what might be the largest private tequila collection in the country, as well as impressive fresh fish specialties and Mesquite grilled entrees. Dine on the patio with gentle sea breezes and glimpses of the yachting life.

Exploring the town

La Paz may be the capital of Baja Sur, but in so many ways it feels like a small south-of-the-border town, nostalgic of old Baja. There may be a Walmart on the outlaying stretches of the city, but the downtown itself is peppered with patio restaurants to while away a lazy afternoon, small boutiques and pastel-washed buildings.

La Paz in Spanish means “peace,” a perfect way to describe its overwhelming serene natural beauty at every turn. One sentiment echoed by both part-time and full-time expats: “Don’t say too many great things about La Paz—everyone will want to come.” For sure, one thing La Paz is “not” is another Cabo, with a palpable absence of partying tourist crowds.

Directly facing the Sea of Cortez, the town is dotted by four main beaches, often yours alone for the day and rivaling some of the Caribbean’s most tempting. It is easy to believe that La Paz hasn’t changed much from the time John Steinbeck discovered its charms in the 1940s and Jacques Cousteau revealed its rich underwater treasures in the 1960s. The eastern coast of Baja California Sur with its pure aqua waters and sparkling white sand was thought by early explorers to be an island. Modern-day “explorers” know better—the area simply conveys a tropical “island” state of mind. Friendly people and a distinct laid-back vibe make La Paz an idyllic spot to enjoy the rhythm and flavor of Mexico, without the safety issues that are unfortunately attached to Mexican travel these days. In fact, you can safely stroll the Malecon, La Paz’s waterfront boardwalk, at night and grab a magical front-row view of moon rays over the water, not to mention some of the best fish tacos in Mexico which is easy to understand since the Gulf of California actually provides more than half of the fish caught in Mexico.