Story & Photos by Barbara Beckley
Wow! My view is amazing.
From high on a bluff gazing across the vast Pacific Ocean – and entirety of beautiful San Luis Obispo Bay, curving along California’s Central Coast, with rocky coves, sandy beaches and magical coastal towns of Pismo Beach, Avila Beach, and tiny Port San Luis.
Best of all, I’m not on some touristy overlook. I’m lounging in a cushy deck chair on my own private terrace. Sipping a crisp Central Coast Chardonnay! Life – and travel – don’t get better than this.
A FABULOUS FIND
My glorious view is just one perk from what may be the Central Coast’s best kept secret – the Flying Flags RV Resort & Campground Avila Beach , located atop a bluff in Port San Luis at the north end of San Luis Obispo Bay. While the resort is famous with Airstream, RV and tent-camping enthusiasts – the secret is – and the name does not say – Flying Flags also offers stand-alone cottages!
Cottage with a View. Author Barbara’s Cabin # 4 overlooking the bay and Port San Luis.
A total of 14 delightful one-bedroom bungalows, like my lovely “Silver Strand” No. 4. Each with a lanai and a private patio with a natural gas firepit overlooking the bay. Plus, living/dining room, a fully outfitted kitchen, bath with luxe amenities, and countless perks like complimentary fresh-brewed morning coffee delivered to your cottage. Perfect for couples, family, friends, and Fido. Doggie friendly amenities are in each cottage. Along with people friendly goodies. A dog beach, off-leash, is across the road.
IT GETS BETTER!
Not only stunning views – stunning wildlife opportunities. At the check-in office, friendly Madeleine told me to be sure to look for sea otters, sealions and seasonal Gray, Blue, and Humpback whales. And enjoy neighboring Port San Luis’ restaurants, ice cream parlors and craft brewery tasting rooms.
Following her advice, after finishing my wine I took a five-minute walk down Flying Flags’ private road to Port San Luis and the Port San Luis Pier (also called the Harford Pier in honor of John Harford who built it in 1878). Snuggling my toes in the soft, sandy beach, I enjoyed the salty air, families looking for shells, off-leash pooches going crazy with joy, and sea lions sunning under the pier. Oops! One small sea lion wasn’t under the pier. He/she was sunning on the rocks some 30 feet ahead! My que to retrace my beachy steps to the pier. While I walked down to the beach and pier, if you’re driving, there’s plenty of parking. You can even drive onto the pier! It’s legal.
AND BETTER!
Picture Perfect at Mersea’s Seafood Restaurant on the Port San Luis Pier
Another amazing view. Sitting outside at the high-top counter at highly recommended Mersea’s Seafood Restaurant, I was totally on the water, with an unobstructed front-row view of the entire bay! The perfect accompaniment to another Central Coast chardonnay. And Mersea’s phenomenal Crab Melt Sandwich of rock crab, avocado and white cheddar cheese on grilled sourdough bread; with a side cup of Clam Chowder. Dee-lish!
ON THE TOWN – WITH CHARM AND TIKIS, TOO!
In the morning, I was parked and exploring the hamlet of Avila Beach in less than 10 minutes from Flying Flags. Small and sophisticated with creative and classic New England-like architecture, it’s home to just 1,576 (discerning) residents, according to the 2010 census. And totally walkable at maybe one-square mile. Strolling along Front Street, picturesque Avila Beach, the bay and Avila Pier were on one side, while stylish shops, restaurants and myriad tasting room/wine bars lined the other. An insider’s discovery for sure.
Tiki doesn’t usually go with “sophisticated.” But being a tiki fan, I was pleased to see fun spots like the Hula Hut dessert shop, and BeachComber Bill’s Tropical Treasures souvenir shop. And as an octopus fan, I loved the undersea mural at Footseas Boutique, along with the fashion-forward swimwear, boardshorts and sunglasses at The Sea Barn.
WINING AND DINING
For wine-tasting, award-winning Peloton Cellars caught my eye. A good call since this is Peloton Cellars’ ONLY tasting room. They don’t even have one at their winery, co-owner/general manager Tricia Kesselring, who was pouring, told me. Her husband Bill Kesselring is the winemaker. It was just me, Tricia, and a seasonal resident from Washington D.C., who’s had a second (or maybe it was a third or fourth) home here for years. He loves Avila Beach and flies out as often as he can, he told me. The three of us enjoyed good wine and good conversation. Sniffing, swirling and sipping Tricia’s five-flight tasting list. I liked the 2021 Slipstream Albarino, with tropical tones, and the oaky 2021 Chardonnay so much I bought two bottles! Which made my $25 tasting flight free.
Good wine and good conversation. Peloton Cellars’ Tasting Room with Co-owner Tricia Kesselring and a seasonal resident from Washington D.C.
All too soon, it was late lunch time. The Blue Moon Over Avila Wine Bar & Bistro looked tempting. But since this was my first visit, I went with the hometown favorite – the Custom House on Front Street, with patio views of the beach, the bay and the pier.
A perfect pair. Peloton Cellars’ Chardonnay and Clam Chowder a la the Custom House restaurant.
I was carrying my wine purchases – and guess what! My server saw the bag and suggested I enjoy a glass with my lunch. “Guests are welcome to bring their own wine. And don’t worry. I’ll waive the $15 corkage fee,” she winked. Whoa – sweet. So, I opened the Peloton Cellars’ chardonnay. A perfect pairing with a Custom House specialty – the heaping “Clam Chowder Bread Bowl,” with potatoes, celery, herbs – and I added bacon crumbles. On my!
A HIDDEN TRESURE – THE CENTRAL COAST AQUARIUM
Who knew? I was every bit as impressed with the Central Coast Aquarium’s two rooms and 15 exhibits, as if it were a miniature Monterey Bay Aquarium. Nurturing, eye-catching, hands-on, educational. A microcosm of more than 50 species of San Luis Obispo Bay’s marine life. “The Giant Pacific Octopus is hiding,” aquarium director Tim Williams, told me. He encouraged me to touch the cute harmless baby Swell sharks – freshly hatched from their curious-looking eggs. “We’ve just acquired this octopus, and she needs time to acclimate before she meets the public,” he explained.
Sharing baby shark love at the Central Coast Aquarium.
Now we know! It’s a Swell Shark egg.
Understood. So, I made up for the Giant Octopus’s absence in the gift shop. Purchasing an adorable plush octopus – to help the cause.
Author Barbara supports her favorite sea creature in the aquarium gift shop.
WAIT — THERE’S MORE!
Which I plan to do on my next stay. Now that I know Flying Flags and Avila Beach are an easy three-hours (about 160 miles) north of LA off Highway 1.
Humpback and Gray Whale watching is January through mid-November on ocean-going tours and from 10 shoreside Whale Trail Organization wildlife viewing sites. Also, the docent-led Pecho Coast Trail Hike which provides an intellectual overview and enlightening history of the Northern Chumash people; the Port San Luis Lighthouse tour and kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding.
And for sure – I’ll revisit the Central Coast Aquarium to meet the Giant Pacific Octopus!
