Sail into the Jewel of the Caribbean, Antigua

Story and photos by Ellen Clark

Being a Southern California girl, my experiences in the tropics leaned toward Hawaii and the Mexican Riviera. But when the chance to visit Antigua, a little gem in the Caribbean, came my way, I was hardly about to refuse. I knew that Antigua and its twin island of Barbuda were famous for their 365 beaches, one for each day of the year, which explains the islands’ record-setting visitation topping one million visitors in 2018.

Originally Antiqua’s charms; warm, steady winds, a complex coastline of safe harbors, and a protective wall of coral reef, appealed to sailors, not tourists. So it was that in 1784 the legendary Admiral Horatio Nelson sailed to Antigua and established Great Britain’s most important Caribbean base.

While back in the day the expansive, winding coastline protected Antigua from outsides, today the very same coastline tantalizes trekkers and beachcombers with acres of secluded white sand beach. Once the bane of marauding ships, Antigua’s coral reefs attract snorkelers and scuba divers from around the world. One of the most popular sailing races in all the Caribbean, a must-do on most sailor’s lists, takes place in Antigua. In fact, this April 27-May 3 Antigua’s 52nd Sailing Week overtakes the island with beach parties, celebrations of local cuisine and recreation, from hikes to kayaking.

Arriving in Antigua after dark meant that the drive from the airport didn’t give much of a clue as to the island’s appearance. There were few lights and the night was black so The Villas at Sunset Lane, my accommodations for the next few days, looked very inviting. Perched on a hill overlooking the beach at Dickenson Bay, The Villas at Sunset Lane is a boutique hotel painted tropical pink and owned by the wonderful Jackie.

Jackie is an elegant looking Antiguan woman of a certain age. She worked for many years in Washington D.C. in the finance business. When she decided to retire, she returned to her homeland and followed her dream of running a small hotel. She’s gracious, full of useful information about the island and an excellent cook.

Next morning, after a cooked breakfast on the patio with a stunning view, I headed off to get a little exercise. On the way I got a good look at the lovely Antigua scenery. Lush foliage surrounded neighborhoods with modest houses painted various Caribbean colors. And there seemed to be a church on almost every corner. Clearly Antiguans take their religion very seriously.

My activity for the day was to kayak and snorkel with South Coast Horizons Boardwalk and Kayaking Adventure. After getting suited up with a life jacket and swim fins, I set off paddling through tunnels of mangrove, surrounding by birdsong, on my way to the beach. Ditching my kayak I boarded a motorboat and headed out to Cades Reef for a little snorkeling.

After a short nap I was ready to go out and indulge in a couple of rum drinks and some fresh fish while listening to some live music. So, on recommendation, I headed to a popular island hotspot, BeachLimerZ. This family owned and operated bistro-bar is located on Antigua’s Historic Fort James Beach. Dark and woodsy, with locally made copper light fixtures, the place was bustling. Once the band started things really turned lively. It was the perfect ending to a perfect day in the Caribbean.

Saturday in St. Johns City, Antigua’s capital, means market day. So off I went to St. John’s Public Market. While you can get just about anything here, from exotic fruits and vegetables to plastic flip flops, I found the fresh fish section the most fascinating.

Going from commerce to history, I spent the afternoon exploring the island’s past. Besides claiming to be the oldest continually working Georgian dockyard in the world, Nelson’s Dockyard is Antigua’s largest National Park. The original eighteenth and nineteenth-century buildings have been restored and historic forts are accessible by hiking trails. So it’s no surprise that this scenic and historic spot has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

History, scenery, water sports, Caribbean music, seafood, and rum, mixed with true island hospitality, what a combination. Would I refuse a return trip? I think not!

Find more information for your trip to Antiqua here.