The Providence Mountains nestled within the state-run recreation area, in a region otherwise surrounded by National Preserve land, is its own unique desert destination, distinguished by a range of mountains that bring cooler air and a botanic garden of cacti and pinyon. The bright red rhyolite in the higher elevations is home to Bighorn sheep and pinyon pines. Edgar Peak soars 7,000 feet above the desert floor and is populated by oak trees. Although a coveted hiking area, it might not be the mountain temperatures and flora that bring you to this remote haven. It will most likely be the re-opening of a California treasure—Mitchell Caverns.

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Providence Mountain State Recreation Area
© 2016, California State Parks.
Photo by Brian Baer

Numerous paleontological and archaeological finds, from prehistoric animals (namely the sloth) to Chemehuevi Indian tools and fire pits, have been made through the years both in the caves and in the surrounding area. Considered a sacred place for the tribe, the Chemehuevi referred to the caves as “the eyes of the mountain” due to the two prominent entrances atop the mountain. But most visitors say it resembles a very large nose with nostrils.

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Providence Mountain State Recreation Area
© 2016, California State Parks.
Photo by Brian Baer

However, the caverns did not acquire their name from the tribe but from the caves’ first owner, Jack Mitchell, who operated the caves from 1934 to 1954 as a rest stop and attraction magnet for travelers on Route 66. Mitchell took visitors on cave tours and also held mining rights to the property, digging holes and tunnels that can still be seen. The enterprising Mitchell leaned about the caves while prospecting for silver and moved his family from Los Angeles to live on the property. Although Mitchell later built a series of paths through the main cave for his tours, his first brave tour-goers were lowered on ropes to reach some of the most scenic chambers. During WW II, the rationing of gasoline meant few visitors for Mitchell’s Crystal Caverns, and, after the war, Mitchell approached the State to take over 82-acre site as a state park.

Since the state stepped in to make the Mitchell Caverns available for public tours again, you don’t need to worry about ropes and stomach-crawling passages. The tours are both easy to access these days and extra spectacular with LED lighting effects and fascinating historical stories and information by your ranger tour guide.

Here are just a few essential things to know:

  1. Reservations are tough, but you might be able to get on the waiting list

The phoning on Monday system will soon be replaced by an online reservation system, and it can’t come soon enough. Monday’s phone lines are busy (a lot!), and tours can be booked for months ahead. No availability when you want to tour? The park service will do everything they can to get you on a tour, especially if you are already in the area. There are cancellations—sometimes an entire group, so you never know. Likewise, if you made a reservation and can’t make it, remember to cancel. (But don’t try to cancel on a Monday—the line is usually busy)

  1. What to wear/bring—and what NOT

For sure wear closed-toe shoes and bring along some layers. The caverns sit high in the mountains, and it can be chilly. Interestingly, the temperatures inside the caverns remain warmer when it’s cold and cooler when it’s hot. What not to wear? Anything you have worn into another cave in the last six years. There is a funny sounding disease you could be transmitting that is not at all funny to the bats that make the caverns home—White Nose Syndrome. Gas up your car and bring snacks and water since the nearest gas station is 23 miles away; the same with food. You cannot bring food or water into the caverns, but you will probably be thirsty (and hungry) when you emerge. Take your camera because you don’t want to miss capturing the majesty of these wonders, but make sure the flash is working—it’s very dark in there.

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Providence Mountain State Recreation Area
© 2016, California State Parks.
Photo by Brian Baer
  1. What to expect

Expect nothing short of breathtaking. The fascinating ranger-led tour takes you through two of Jack Mitchell’s caves, El Pakiva (The Devil’s House) and Tecopa, for a better-than-Disney imagined trail through geology’s artwork: stalactites that flow from towering “ceilings,” waterfall-patterned flowstone, stalagmites under your feet and even a cave-dwelling animal or two. The new paved trails with stairs and rails make the experience easy, and dramatic LED (cave safe) lighting definitely captures Mother Nature’s spectacular artwork.

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Providence Mountain State Recreation Area
© 2016, California State Parks.
Photo by Brian Baer

Tour Details

When: Fridays through Sundays (plus holiday Mondays); tours at 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. (15 people per tour); arrive 15 minutes prior to tour. Hours and tours may change in the summer season.

Cost: $10 per adult; $5 per child (16 and under); $5 per senior (credit card or exact cash). Since the credit card machine may not work, just bring exact cash.

Reservations required: By phone only on Mondays between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m., (760) 928-2586 (speak with a staff member; messages not accepted).

About: The ranger-led tour of Mitchell Caverns involves a 1.5-mile moderate roundtrip hike to and from the caverns and an hour guided tour of the cave.

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